The best of Madrid and Rioja. Reflections on Spain.

The olives at Mercado San Miquel were the best I've ever tasted.  

I’ve been looking over my pictures of Spain and after a few weeks reflection I have some final thoughts.

The Mercado San Miquel is a great place to eat in Madrid.  Casual and fun with lots of reasonably priced options, this market has come a long way since we visited 5 years ago.  Both visits were in late afternoon early evening. What was a sleepy vegetable and specialty food market is now a hip and happening food event.    The olives in Spain are the best I’ve ever tasted.  The amazing selection of stuffed olives in the Mercado de San Miquel was unforgettable, but plain green olives are the most common bar snack and they are simply fantastic. 

Madrid’s art scene is great and casual, good quality food and drink is easy to find.  For the North American visitor the early evening tapas offer great value for low investment and a nice alternative to the normal late night dining. I recommend a visit to Casa Gonzalez for both the food and the chance to try some wine before you buy.  

Casa Gonzalez earned a return visit.  Try the stuffed peppers.

I don’t think you can beat the Westin Palace location in Madrid, with the 3 best museums on one side and the Santa Anna district on the other.  I’d be happy to spend a couple of nights there on any visit to Spain.

Poppies and mountains in Rioja

Our wine touring in Rioja was better than I’d imagined.  The combination of historic villages, pilgrims walking the Santiago de Compostella, ditches full of bright red poppies, architecturally stunning wineries and endless vineyards was mind blowing.   Some wineries are among the largest producers in the world and the passion for architecture is quite exciting.  The Marques de Riscal features a Frank Gerry designed wine tribute and   R Lopez de Heredia has a shiny tasting room by Zaha Hadid. I’d recommend booking tours at both of these.

We were able to drop in for tasting at Muga and Roda wineries in Haro.  Roda was one of my favourites.  The wine was excellent and one that earned a spot in my suitcase.  Roda was easy to visit and though they had just 2 wine to taste, they also had 2 olive oils to try.  Another spot in the suitcase gone. Now that I’m home I wish I’d bought them both. 

I probably wouldn’t rent a villa again in the Rioja.  The markets aren’t inspiring the way they are in France and casual dining is inexpensive and good.  I would prefer a comfortable hotel that includes breakfast.  Next time I’ll  stay in Logrono.  I could eat on the Calle Laurel several days without getting bored.